Farewell to April

A good weekend for museums!

We're starting to tackle the list of "remaining things to do in Dublin" and headed back to the National Gallery for the current exhibit "James Joyce's 'Dubliners': The City as Character".  The Dubliners is this years "one city, one book" selection, and was also the first book I read after learning that we would be heading to Ireland for this adventure. . . it all seems very familiar to me now.

Walter Frederick Osborne (Dublin 1859 - 1903 Dublin)
The Four Courts, Inns Quay, c.1901

from the exhibit website

On our first trip to Dublin back in 2010, we had visited the National Museum of Ireland - Decorative Arts and History. . . it was one of our favorite stops, but I had been completely disappointed to run out of time before seeing the "temporary exhibit" of Irish High Crosses. . . well, it's still "temporarily" here, so back we went. . .

The crosses are actually plaster of paris replicas, created in the early part of the 20th. century to preserve the art of the crosses, as well as to share them with the broader world - - replicas went to London, Boston, Chicago and Australia.   The carvings were an early teaching tool for the largely illiterate Irish public to learn the stories of the Bible.  For me, they are wonderful works of art.

 

Display of Replica High Cross

Our next stop was the Irish Museum of Modern Art - - unfortunately most of the collection is currently unavailable as the building is under renovation, but that didn't stop us from enjoying the amazing gardens.

Gardens with Phoenix Park in the distance

Museum housed in old Military Retirement Home

Pat in Wonderland

We had lucked out with the weather Saturday, with cool and windy but no rain. . . Sunday made up for it!

We spent most of the day reading and planning our next big adventure - - more on that in May.

Sunday night we had tickets to a concert at the National Concert Hall which we really argued with ourselves about attending . . . we were glad we did!  It was worth a walk in the rain.

The event was the finals for the Siansa Gael Linn - - literally translated as "a pool of Irish music".  From the website:

"SIANSA GAEL LINN is a competition for young traditional music and singing groups organised by Gael Linn with sponsorship from Foras na Gaeilge, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta and Irish Music Magazine.

Siansa provides a platform for traditional groups who are aiming to develop their own traditional style as did groups such as Téada, Altan, Danú, Dervish, Solas etc. Young people taking part in Siansa must be over 12 and under 19 years of age. Groups may have between 5 and 8 members"

I'm just glad that I didn't have to judge! 

Last year's winners - hope the link works - if not, cut and paste:

http://player.vimeo.com/video/23201880"

Back home to an Irish Whiskey nightcap. . . another good weekend!









Fulbright farewells

It is hard to believe, but the time here is growing short.  That was brought home this week with a "Fulbright farewell" day . . .

Good to see our friends from the Galway trip - - February seems like yesterday in some ways, and like another lifetime in others.  While we are here until the end of May, some of the Fulbrighters are heading home in just a few short days, so we gathered for a day of Dublin highlights. . .

Breakfast was served in a sky box in Croke Park, home of the GAA games . . . followed by a tour of the stadium. . .

Absolutely perfect field - - looks artificial, but isn't

Mark getting a closer look - - don't step on the grass!!

Fun fact here - - all of the GAA athletes are amateurs - - they play for the love of the game!  And tickets are only ten to twenty-five euro . . . interesting note on the day after the NFL draft!

Next stop was Glasnevin Cemetery - - founded in 1832 by Daniel O'Connell "to establish a place where those of all religions and none could bury their dead with dignity".  There are more souls buried here than there are alive in Dublin  -  - and there's still room for more! 

Densely "populated"

O'Connell Tower - outside . . .

and in

Lunch was followed by a stop at Sweny's Pharmacy for a James Joyce reading - - everyone taking turns reading a page from "The Dubliners" - - and I don't care what the host said, if you're going to read Joyce out loud, you should have an Irish accent!!

"Sweny" himself

The Fulbright Commission must be doing something right, because the weather for the rest of the week was just awful!  Heavier rain than we've seen here to date, and gale force winds rattling the windows.  For the first time I did NOT go out to walk each day. 

Spent my indoor time painting, finding activities for the rest of our stay, and planning a side trip for May - - more on that later.

Hoping for some dry minutes this weekend, but looks like good weather for a museum or two. . . see you Monday!

Irish Heritage Sites and a Small, Small World

Good morning!  Hope you had a good weekend.

We have a long list of "Heritage Sites of Ireland" which we have been working away at since we've been here. . . two of the last ones in the immediate Dublin area were Rathfarnam Castle and the Pearse Museum and St. Enda's Park.

Our nearby bus took us directly to the entry gate of the Castle in Rathfarnam.  We walked the grounds first, then went inside to view the costume and toy collection from the from the 18th. and 19th. centuries.

The Castle dates back to the Elizabethan period (16th. Century) and had a long history of English ownership up to the period when the Jesuits owneship and protected it during the period of the Irish Civil war. . . we had a very engaging guide, and the buiding was as interesting to us as the costumes and toys (which were also very interesting but no photos allowed).

Rathfarnam Castle

It was a beautiful day, so rather than getting back on a bus, we walked the 30 minutes or so to the next stop . . . I'm glad we did because the walk took us by some lovely areas. . .

Abbey in Rathfarnam

Enda Park which surrounds the Pearse Museum is described in the brochures as "charming and atmospheric" - - I think that's what they say anytime thy have left trees undisturbed.  We enjoyed the "atmosphere"!

Into the woods

Out of the woods

Before Patrick Pearse became wrapped up in revolution (the Easter Rising of 1916), he and his brother started a boarding school on these grounds for the education of young Irish men  AS Irishmen.  They taught classical languages AND Irish, and placed emphasis on the arts, languages, and natural sciences (hence, their location inside a lovely park land).  Unfortunately, both brothers were executed after the uprising, but the school continued until the 1930's.  Their sister left the school and grounds to the Office of Public Works to preserve the legacy.

Pearse School now Museum

Sunday took us back to Dublin City Gallery the Hugh Lane for a Sunday noon concert by the National Chamber Choir of Ireland.  This was their final stop on their Spring tour, but lacked nothing in energy.  The program was contemporary Irish music. . . most enjoyable.  Sixteen voices (including a male alto) . . .the perfect size!

Here's where the small, small world comes in - - the conductor had formerly been the Director of the Early Music Institute at Indiana University!  AND, two of the composers were past Fulbright Scholars. . . one at Columbia University, and one at the University of Wisconsin.

Small world indeed!





A Very Entertaining Week!

We met up with a couple at the conference in Birmingham who will be headed to Dublin next Spring for a sabbatical stay.  They were spending the rest of this week in Dublin, so upon our return on Tuesday, we had them over for dinner and a "primer" on what to expect from their adventure - - wish we had met us a year ago!

Thursday brought our second US visitors - - had a lovely afternoon/evening showing an old "Indy Airs" friend around our new city . . . took in the Liffey, Temple Bar, Dame Street, Grafton Street, St. Teresa's Church and had a great meal in the courtyard at Powerscourt House shopping gallery.  Safe travels, MB!

Friday evening we entertained some friends from DIT - - - introduced them to some Caribbean food, enjoyed some good wine, and had a good excuse to shop at my favorite neighborhood patisserie - - I've missed baking while here, but with nearby shops like this, I've managed :)

The Queen of Tarts

AND . . .  picked up Mark's new hat - - very dashing if I do say so myself!!

"Indiana Mark"

Time for another weekend adventure - - see you Monday!

Spring Break, Chapter 2, 3 and 4

Hi, we're back!
Easter is a five day weekend here, so Easter Monday found us playing tourist in our own neighborhood. . . we finally took the tour at Dublin Castle!  Much history, although MOST of it is English. . . since Ireland as we now know it is younger than my mother!

Largest Hall in the Castle

Tuesday found us at the National Museum of Ireland, Archeology.   Gold hoards, bog men and lots of really beautiful artifacts. . . unfortunately, we took photos of NONE of them - - but a Brooch of Tara may me in my future.

Wednesday began Chapter 3, off to Birmingham, England where Mark had an academic conference.  Arrived in time for the opening cocktail party and dinner with Purdue friends at a nearby pub.
On Thursday I decided to partake in the planned activities for spouses, and was happy to be on a bus tour of Stratford 'on Avon for all things Shakespeare!  It had been 34 years since my last visit there, and it has changed considerably from what I remember.  .  . for the good of the town and tourism, I'm sure!

Anne Hathaway's Cottage

Holy trinity church where Shakespeare is buried

Shakespeare's birthplace 

Thursday night we had a civics lesson at the Birmingham Council House (City Council) and came to a real appreciation of the American way of government.

Council House

Council Chambers

Friday was a day for me to explore on my own, and I headed to the Birmingham Museum and some nearby shopping for some "people watching".

Birmingham Museum

Friday night was the gala dinner at the very impressive Aston Villa Football (soccer) Park.  You don't have to be a fan to be awed.

Aston Villa Park

Chapter 4 began early on Saturday with a train trip into London.  True to form, we fit about 3 days of activity into one - - Piccadilly Circus was near our West End hotel, as was Buckingham Palace - we just caught the end of the Changing of the Guards. . .

Buckingham Palace

Palace Gates

Then to the British Museum which had ALSO changed since our 1978 visit - - who knew?

This used to be a courtyard!

Mark's repeat request from '78 was to go back to St. Paul's Cathedral and take in the top of the dome!  Glad to still be able to do the 528 steps 34 years later!  Great views!!!!

Views from Stone Gallery - 376 steps up

Views from Golden Gallery - 528 steps up

Looking up to where we were - - above the main dome!

Then across the river to the Queen's walk, deciding to skip the London Eye since we had already been higher on top of the dome at St. Paul's.  Besides, the lines were ridiculous!!

London Eye

Houses of Parliament

Dinner near the hotel was a good idea, as was the bottle of wine we took back to the room to nurse our aging knees.

Sunday morning we were lazy, reading the Sunday Times over tea before heading out again.  My "wish list" was the Victoria and Albert museum which was a nice walk from our hotel, passing by the Wellington Arch and Harrods.

The V & A turned out to be more than we ever expected!  Spent the entire day there!

View from our lunch table

Museum Courtyard

Monday was our last day, but the plane didn't leave until pretty late in the day, so we hit the National Gallery for a special exhibit of Turner landscapes. . .

National Gallery

Nelson's column from Gallery stairs

Back on the tube to Hyde Park where we spent the rest of our day strolling through Hyde Park and Kensington Park, from Kensington Palace back to Wellington Arch again, and then to the hotel to collect our luggage and leave.

Kensington Palace

Sunken Garden

Pumphouse and Italian Garden

Wellington Arch

Back home in Dublin, and it really does feel that way. . .

Cheers!

Easter

We took a much needed break this weekend and scheduled absolutely nothing. . . .

Our window garden

Rambled through the park again - - Spring continues to spring.

Stephen's Green (again)

Shopped for a hat for Mark - - his turn for the perfect souvenir.  I'll post pictures once we succeed in finding it :)

Farmers market's always a good bet. . . I painted a still life of Irish root vegs, but wasn't happy with my carrot, so I won't post here :(

We decided against attending the Vigil Mass and went to the Sunday choir Mass instead - - wonderful music and nice to see a full church.

Completed the weekend at St. Patrick's Cathedral with Choral Evensong - choir of men and boys.  The Cathedral was built in 1220 and the choir school was founded in 1431, so they really, really know what they're doing!

Photo from website - - can't begin to get a good representation with our limited camera

Mark is still officially on "Easter Break" here, good time to do some catch up on his Purdue work!  Plus, we leave again on Wednesday for an academic conference in Birmingham, England.  We'll continue on to London from there for the weekend, so I probably won't be posting again until we are settled back in at home in Dublin (next Tuesday).

Missed my friends and family on Easter, but I promise we'll make up for it in June!



Spring Break - - Heading South, Irish style!

Spring Break for us has often meant heading South to the mountains of North Carolina, or on to Florida for visits with relatives.  This year, well, we sort of headed South to the mountains and on to the "sub tropics" of Ireland!


Walking to the train station early Sunday morning we caught the train to Kilkenny and were there by mid morning.  We had a perfectly beautiful day for our first day's agenda.  The Kilkenny Castle is an imposing structure on the River Nore, making it's first appearance in the twelfth century.  Many iterations later, it is now owned by the Office of Public Works (much more interesting than a sewage treatment plant, don't you think?)

Views of the Castle

After the self-guided tour of the Castle (no interior photos allowed), we ventured on to see what else the town had to offer. . .

River from the Castle side

Courtyard of Rothe House - 16th. Century merchant

Smithwick Brewery - this one's for Alex

This one's for Karen

This one's for my sibs

Looking toward the town from the Castle

Then to our hotel for a short break. . .



Views from our room balcony

Taking full advantage of the late daylight, we headed back to the Castle to walk the grounds before closing time. . .

Into the woods . . .

and out again!

Totally exhausted, we called it a day!

Monday morning was another beautiful day to wander, and we had enough time to wander the old town before our next departure.

St. Canice's Cathedral - tower dates to 700 A.D.

St. Mary's Cathedral

ruins of St. Francis Abbey (within Smithwick Brewery complex)

Monday afternoon - time to move on.  With Harry Chapin playing in my head, we caught the bus toward Killarney - - with a stopover in Cork (longer than expected, but that's the way with travel), we were still in Killarney in time for a late dinner and quick orientation to the town center so we'd know where to show up in the morning.

Tuesday was our official "tourist" day - taking a guided bus trip around the Ring of Kerry. It was also back to "Irish weather" - - cool and light rain.  .  . glad to get on a warm, dry bus. I would highly recommend the bus tour, as the drive would have been harrowing, and the bus made plenty of stops for photos, refreshments, and stretching.  The photos speak for themselves. . .



For Lori - - the only place you'll see thatched roofs

Atlantic shores

Village of Sneem (love that name)

Mountain Views

Torc Waterfall

Wednesday's weather cooperated - - windy and cool, but no rain for our hike through the Killarney National Park!

St Mary's Cathedral at Park entry

Deenaugh Lodge

View from trail

River Walk

Knockreer House with Azaleas (the Victorians collected plants and brought them back to Ireland, causing what is now a problem with invasive species - - Rhododendrons and Azaleas among them)

Ross Castle

Boat tours (too cool for me to sit still, thanks)

View across to Innisfallen Island

Cherry Tree Walk

Back on the train Wednesday evening for a return to Dublin!  Interesting and fun to take a Spring Break without a car! 

Thursday was a blur of laundry, grocery shopping and downloading photos! 

Hope everyone has a Happy Easter!!!